Free Celtic Art

Get away from it all in Europe's historic libraries

European cities are feet-on-the-pavement destinations, where many of us find ourselves trudging along familiar routes with hordes of tourists just like us. To take a break, we are likely to stop at the cafes and museum gardens already overcrowded with fellow travelers.

But relief could be at hand, in the guise of cities' libraries, which are often ignored by visitors. Here are some of my favorites.

Amsterdam: The Centrale Bibliotheek

The 10-story structure — as bright and intellectually stimulating a space as it is massive — was completed in 2007 and is the new crown jewel of the Dutch public library system. Anchoring the redeveloping historic wharf district and just a five-minute walk from the Central Train Station, it is ideally situated for the traveler. Extremely family friendly with areas designated specifically for children, the Centrale Bibliotheek is also a great place to spend a few hours on a rainy day. For adults, there are numerous places to read, along with art and photography exhibitions to visit. For children, there is a reading area with two-story circular bookcases and overstuffed reading chairs.

When hunger strikes, head to the top floor, where the cafeteria provides a broad choice of salads, sandwiches and hot food alongside a rare view of the city. And a cafe with an outside terrace is just off the library's main entrance, where one can have coffee or pizza. This may be the only library in the world that has parking places for 2,000 bicycles.

In the Oosterdokseiland neighborhood. Admission: free.

Dublin: The National Library Of Ireland

The Trinity College Library may be the best-known library in Ireland, but the lesser-known National Library of Ireland, which is also near the city center, offers a combined treat in architecture and Ireland's literary history.

Founded in 1877, the library is intimately connected to some of Ireland's greatest names. Richard Irvine Best, its first Celtic scholar, started working at the library in 1904 and became its director in 1924. (James Joyce, an acquaintance, depicted him in "Ulysses.")

But it is William Butler Yeats, whose work and life are so extensively displayed here, that makes the library unique. Yeats' widow, George, began donating his papers to the library soon after his death in 1939, and his son, Michael, and daughter, Ann, later made additional contributions.

A Yeats exhibition that opened in 2006 will continue for another year at least in the galleries that adjoin the library. Visitors can relax and listen to a dozen Yeats poems read by prominent actors, writers and even Yeats himself, who recited in a surprisingly sing-song tone, striking in its oddness.

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